How to Play (War) Games Solitaire -Part 1

As a new wargamer in a small town, solitaire play is about your only option.  Wargamers are far and few between.   Many times that is our only option.  Unfortunately, wargamers are often forced to become experts at solitaire play.  Is this worthwhile?  Is it good to do?  Does it teach you bad habits?


“What are you doing?”, my aunt asked.  “Oh, just playing a new game I got.”, I responded.  “Who are you playing with?” she asked.  “Nobody.  I’m just going through it on my own.” I said.  She burst out laughing so hard that she almost fell down. 

She made a few silly jokes like,  “How do you know when you’ve beaten yourself?” and “Do you get mad at yourself when you lose?”  Interspersed with generous rounds of continued hysterics.   She was mostly having fun but she really did not understand how playing a game by yourself could be possible at all.


This can be a huge stumbling block for new players trying to start in the hobby.  In addition to learning a new hobby and game system, most likely they will have to figure out how to play without an opponent. 

Wargames don’t come with instructions on solitaire play.  It can be difficult for new players to figure out but I’ve even noticed that veteran wargamers sometimes struggle with this.  I’ve heard wargamers often declare games as unplayable for solitaire;  the very games that I find fascinating in solitaire play.

My aunt’s question was valid.  How is it even possible to play a game without an opponent?  Here are some tips to help you get started if you are new.  Veteran wargamers might also find a few new insights they haven’t thought of before as well.

Goal

The main difference I notice at first is the primary goal.  WHY are you playing?  In regular games, you play to win!  If you are playing both sides, that doesn’t work.  What does that even mean?  For solitaire play, we need a new goal.

Here is the key difference:  The goal is not to win.

The goal is to learn.

This focus changes our entire perspective on the game.  We don’t care anymore who wins.   This frees are mind to really learn.  Learn things you might not otherwise.  Learn the rules of the game better but also lessons on tactics, strategy, history and leadership.

Play both sides to the best of your ability. 

Actually, (yes, I’m contradicting myself here) we do care who wins.  We want both sides to win.  When you make a move for a side:

make the best move possible, for that side, given the current situation.

Defense:  Ready for Anything

Usually there is a weaker, defending side and a stronger offensive side.  I find that it works well to set the defense up first.  What will the offense do?  I have no idea.  I haven’t even started to think about that yet.  How should you set up the defense?  Where is the enemy most likely to attack?  Where are you weak and vulnerable?  What key areas MUST be held?  When I set up the defense, I try to set them up for maximum flexibility.  Be prepared for ANYTHING.  This usually means a light setup along the front with a strong, mobile reserve force able to respond where needed. 

Example:

If I knew the British were going to launch a frontal attack across the river, I would deploy the Colonials like this at Brandywine.

If I knew that Cornwallis was going to be flanking me on the right, I would set the Colonials up like this.

Not knowing anything, I would setup more like this. The Colonials are lightly covering both flanks and main river crossings with a strong central reserve. From this position, they can delay the main attack and respond with their
reserve, once they know where it is.

Forgetting Break

Once the defense is setup, it is a good time to take a little break.  Go to another room.  Have a snack.  Catch up on emails, texts, posts, etc.  Forget about all that.  Set it all aside. 

Offensive Plan

Next I like to start thinking about an overall offensive plan.  Where will we strike?  What do we want to accomplish?  How will we defeat the defender?  Reading some historical accounts can be a great source of inspiration.  Often you will hear an armchair historian claim that this particular moment or decision was the key to the entire campaign / battle.  It was a huge mistake and resulted in defeat.  If only this general had done this instead. 

Interesting.  Is it true?  This is an aspect of our hobby that I find most fascinating.  Wargames give us a chance to actually test and try these theories out! 

Example: If only Hitler had pushed a little harder, he could have destroyed the BEF at Dunkirk.  Germany would have won the war right then!  There is no way Britain could have continued to resist.  They would have been forced to negotiate surrender.  Really?

Let’s find out!  Let’s play a good strategic wargame on WWII.  Set it up starting in summer of 1940.  What do the Germans do?  Everything they can to ensure the destruction of the BEF.  What happens?  Can they easily invade and conquer the British Isles now?  Exactly how would you conduct a Sea Lion invasion?  Fascinating to see how this could play out.

How does the defender setup?  What does the defender do?  This is a critical part of solitaire play.  Also why it is best to set the defender up first, before you have an offensive plan.  Remember, you’re not playing to win.  You are playing to learn.  Set the defender up as they would have historically.  Once the game begins, try to play the Allied side as they would have moved historically.  AS IF they didn’t know what the German plan was.

While playing, you do know what the Germans are up to.  You have to set all that aside.  Pretend you don’t know.  Obviously, if you set up and play the Allies with the intent of saving the BEF being the first priority, then you will right?  Set the BEF up in Brest and immediately move them back to Blighty on turn one.  There.  Mission accomplished.  What is the point of that?  What have you learned?

Actually, there is an interesting lesson here too.  It reminds me of Sun Tzu.  The best plan is one designed to defeat the enemy’s plan.  The problem is, we usually don’t know what the enemy plan is.  We have to try to figure that out on the fly. 

Play the defense according to what is best for them.  Set them up AS IF they didn’t know what was coming.  Play them AS IF they didn’t know what the enemy was going to do next.  IF they didn’t know, what is their best move?  What would they most likely do?  Don’t jump the gun.

Here is another key question:  When would they know?  At some point, the British had an ‘Oh #$@*!’ realization that the BEF was in trouble.  How are we going to get them out of there?!  When would that moment happen?  What would trigger that realization?  What would the Allies do then to save the BEF?

Example: 

It is turn 1 at Brandywine.

Wouldn’t you know it, Washington gets picked to move first.

He is in command of the central reserve. What should he do? The British haven’t moved yet. Since we are running both sides, we DO know that Cornwallis is planning to flank on the Colonial left. Great but Washington doesn’t know that yet. We can’t rush Washington over to his left now. The Colonials, at this time, have no idea where Cornwallis will strike. What does Washington know? When will he know it?

The best choice here is for Washington to delay his move. With a little luck, this could result in Cornwallis moving first, which would allow Washington to respond this turn. If Washington is forced to move first, he should simply pass. At this point, he would have no intell to act on.

If Cornwallis is picked to move next, he will also attempt to delay his move. Why? Because he wants to keep his intent hidden for as long as possible. Ideally, the British want the Colonials to waste their first turn passing. If the British can move first on turn 2, they will in effect get a double move before the Colonials can even do anything. That could be a devastating blow!

Play the offense according to your pre determined plan.  I generally won’t change the offensive plan unless it goes terribly wrong.  If it does, it might be time to pull the plug and start a new game.  Sometimes not though.  This can be an interesting situation too.  It happens in real life.  The plan failed.  At what point do you realize this?  At what point do you admit defeat?  What is plan B?  What can you do now?  Given this, is there another way to win? 

Wrestling with questions like these is not only great training, it is very rewarding and great fun!


This goes back to our earlier questions:  Is solitaire play a waste of time?  Detrimental to understanding military science and command? 

No!  We find it extremely useful.  Even if you were constantly surrounded by lots of eager wargame players, I would still recommend playing solitaire once in awhile.

There are many things you can learn more quickly and deeply by playing solitaire.  It will make you a better player.  It will make you a better leader / commander.  Solitaire play trains you to think from both sides.  This is a critical command skill.  It is easy to see through our own eyes.  How does the enemy see us?  What do they know?  What don’t they know?  If we move here, how will that look to the enemy?  When will they realize what we are up to?  What is the enemy’s intent?  How can we conceal our own intent?

Solitaire play teaches you to see through the enemy’s eyes.  This is a real world training benefit that is priceless.  Some of the best training you can ever do.    

–Even though silly aunts may not be able to stop laughing. 

Kriegsspiel Pieces Too Small?

I am a little worried that the Kriegsspiel pieces will be too small and fiddly.  Is there a photo on your site with something to compare their size to (like someone’s fingers picking them up – 13mm seems pretty small…are they wide and tall enough to get a good grip on them, or will I be battling against knocking them over and pushing them out of place?


We got this great question via email today! We have lots of great photos on our website but it is hard to get a sense of the scale of these pieces. How big are they? One half inch by one quater inch. That’s tiny but how tiny? Are they going to be too much of a hassle?

A picture is worth a thousand words. Check these out:

Regular 8 sided die. The others are standard 12mm & 16mm rounded corner dice.
Metric Scale up.

Hopefully these pictures will give you a good sense of how the scale translates into the real world. Ok, so back to the question, how fiddly are they?

First of all, let me say that these Kriegsspiel blocks were designed long ago by the Prussian military to be easy to use. They are.

My personal experience is that these Kriegsspiel blocks, though small ARE indeed easy to grab and move around. -even for my Jimmy Dean sausage fingers! Much easier than standard wargame counters for comparison. We tested them extensively for this before deciding to go into production.

They are small. Half the size of standard wargame counters. What makes up for this is the thickness or depth. This makes them very easy to grab even though they are half the height.

These are standard half inch wargame counters.

We actually have plans for a hex, corps scale WW2 game. You can easily stack 4 blocks per hex on a ETO or A3R map. We found them easier the move around a look at than regular counters.

Kriegsspiel blocks on a standard hex and counter wargame.

Now, all that said, are they just as easy as Pub Battles blocks to push around? No. Those are like mini Jenga blocks or maybe half a Domino.

Pub Battles pieces vs Kriegsspiel.

So, bottom line conclusion? Pub Battles blocks are the least fussy and easiest to see and adjust. Our wooden Kriegsspiel blocks are second easiest. They are taller / depth wise than the regular Kriegsspiel blocks. This makes them much easier than regular Kriegsspiel blocks and standard wargame counters.

We’ve found them to be the best fit if you want fine detail but also something relatively easy to manipulate.

Pub Battles Miniature Scales

The Pub Battles rules make an excellent system for miniature games.  They are:

  • Fast  (complete an entire battle in 1-2 hours)
  • Accurate, and
  • Easily accommodate multiple players

These scales will help you to setup and play miniature battles with Pub Battles rules.


Time scale

1 turn = 1.5 hours.

Map scale

1 mile = 3.75 inches.

Movement Rates

1 Mounted move = 7.5 inches. 1/3 Mounted move = 2.5 inches.

1 Foot move = 5.25 inches. 1/3 Foot move = 1.75 inches.

Unit Scales

Blocks are:  1 7/8 x 3/8 inch.

HQs:  3/8 x 3/8 inch.

For large armies, units typically represent Divisions.  2,500-5,000 men.

For smaller engagements, they can represent Brigades.  750-2,000 men.

We assume that units of this size have a smattering of guns attached to them.  Artillery pieces represent a larger concentration of a Corps reserve artillery.

Most often, organize Commands into  Corps.  Depending on the size of forces involved, you may want to group these together into Wings.  Typically 3-6 Commands per side works best. 

Miniature Scale

2mm miniatures work really well.  You don’t even need basing.  Just line up 3 stands for each Unit.

You can even use Kriegsspiel blocks for the units. 

Scale Conversion

Pub Battles is made to fit an entire battle on a small table.  For miniatures, you may want to scale it down to a bigger size. 

For example, you may want to double a 2 x 2 foot Pub Battles map into a 4 x 4 foot big table.  Scales would now be double as follows:

Double Scale:


1 mile = 7.5 inches.

Movement Rates

1 Mounted move = 15 inches. 1/3 Mounted move = 5 inches.

1 Foot move = 10.5 inches. 1/3 Foot move = 3.5 inches.

Blocks are:  1 3/4 x 3/4 inch.

HQs:  3/4 x 3/4 inch.

Feather Pens

What do Quill pens have to do with wargaming? I’m not completely sure but I really like this video. There is a good chance you guys will like it too.

It was very cool to find out what red ink is for. I never knew that!! I’m going to start writing out ‘chore lists’ for all our teenagers in red now. lol….

Check out this site. He’s got a lot of really cool stuff here:

Writing Accessories

Waterloo OB

Calling all Waterloo experts!

We’ve been having many people ask us for a Waterloo Kriegsspiel set.  The map graphics are done and ready to go.  The big hold up is the time to put together a detailed and accurate OB.

That got me to thinking.  Why reinvent the wheel?  Wargamers are an incredible resource of information and expertise.  I bet many of you already have this information at your fingertips, ready to go. 

If you do, please, send it to us and help us get this ready to roll sooner.

Why?  What’s in it For You?

  • You’ll get to have it sooner. 
  • We’ll give you credit in the rules. 
  • Free stuff!  We’ll also cut you in on free product, commensurate with your contribution.  Get us most the info first, and we’ll send you a free copy of the map (paper), pieces and stickers for a Waterloo Kriegsspiel.  Help us proof and adjust for accuracy and we’ll send you coupon codes to get it for a discount.   

What We Need

We need a detailed OB for the battle going down to the 450 man unit.  Kriegsspiel calls them “Half Battalions”.  I find that in the American Civil War, this usually translates into Regiments.  Regardless what they are called, we are looking for approximately 450 units.  Cavalry usually goes down to 150 man squadrons.  Depending on the numbers involved, we sometimes bump this up.

How ?

Put this together into a spreadsheet.  Please use this format as an example:

Brandy Station Confederate OB KS

Send it to us in an email. 


I’ll compile and post the first draft here.  That way, we can get lots of eyes on it for corrections and adjustments.  If you see something that needs to be changed, please comment below.   

 

 

Brandywine Variant

Tom recently sent this in as a player’s guide and variant for our Kriegsspiel Brandywine Scenario.  It is a fantastic supplement!  Our Battalion rules allow you to fight this out as a detailed Pub Battle.  Fast, easy and very dynamic.  We need to further develop this into a whole new series!  

 


Every time I play the KS games reinforces the unique nature of this addition to your family of games. These games offer a completely different dynamic from the standard Pub Battles offering, capturing the flow of each battle much more effectively, and offering deep insights into the circumstances and outcomes of each modeled battle. They represent a truly new departure for your game system, and one that will, in my view, prove very attractive to both new and veteran military board gamers.

I’d like to see a more robust framework for game play in this KS series. KS Bunker Hill is better than KS Brandywine in this respect, but still doesn’t provide enough information for the players to launch into the game without a lot of additional research. 

I think this is pretty easy to fix, and have attached what I put together for KS Brandywine. This version has been refined by multiple games, and I think provides a pretty good, “stand alone” start point for purchasers of KS Brandywine.

 Thanks, Tom 


Kriegsspiel (KS) Brandywine Scenario with Pub Battles Rules (using Version 2.92 Rules)

  1. Command Additions. For the British, Cornwallis and Knyphausen, as wing commanders, act as “extra” army commanders for their respective wings, in addition to commanding directly the troops identified immediately under them on the loss rosters. Subordinate commands for Cornwallis are Mathew (Guards and Grenadier Brigades), and Grey (3rd and 4th Brigades); Donop (Hessian Brigade) is directly subordinate to Cornwallis, and activates with his headquarters. Subordinate commands for Knyphausen are Grant (1st and 2nd Brigades); Stirn (Hessian Brigade) and the three battalions of the 71st Highlanders  are directly subordinate to Knyphausen and activate with his headquarters.  Only Howe, Cornwallis and Knyphausen can roll to change turn order, for themselves or for any subordinate under their respective commands (and within command range), on a roll of 4 or less.  All commanders (except Howe, who may be activated with any British command) have a “chit” n the command cup (but see Order of Appearance, below). British elite units include all three units of the 71st Highlanders (71, 72, and 73), all British Grenadiers, and the Foot Guards.

For the Americans, Washington is the Army Commander and also commands the troops directly under the “Reserve” on the loss roster.  Subordinate commands are Sullivan (including Stephen’s and Sterling’s Divisions), Greene, and Wayne.  All commanders have a “Chit” in the command cup, but only Washington can change turn order, for himself or for any subordinate within command range, on a roll of 4 or less. Defeat numbers for the two armies are 18 for the British and 14 for the Americans. You will need to make additional commanders blocks for this, as well as “commitment” chips, which are not included in the game.

Combat ineffective numbers are 50% of infantry and cavalry units (combined) for each command according to the rosters (the three British Light Infantry battalions are included under Cornwallis for determining combat ineffective percentages).

  1. Historical Order of Appearance. Knyphausen’s command begins the game deployed on the map anywhere south of Wystar’s Ford and west of the Brandywine, with the exception of the 1st and 3rd Battalions of 71st Highlanders – 71 and 73 unit labels, respectively. These are optional units, which enter the turn following any movement by an American unit west of the Brandywine creek (these units historically were assigned to guard Howe’s baggage trains, and did not take part in the battle). Cornwallis’ wing (with Howe) enters the game map on turn one as the first units to activate, crossing the Brandywine in road column at Jeffries Ford, in the following order: Mounted Jagers, British Grenadiers, Light Infantry Brigade, Hessian Jagers, Foot Guards, Artillery, Hessian Grenadiers, 4th Brigade, 3rd Brigade, and 16th Dragoons. Chits for Cornwallis’ subordinate units are not added to the command cup until turn two.  The game ends following the end of turn ten.

 

  1. Light (including Jager) Infantry. Light infantry units are exempt from all command rules, and can be activated with any friendly command. Bombardment attacks against light infantry have a -1 modifier. Light infantry units have all around facing, cannot be flanked and disregard fields of fire – that is, they may advance into enemy fields of fire without moving into actual contact, and do not exert fields of fire themselves.  Spent light infantry units may not rally in an enemy field of fire, however.

 

  1. Light Infantry Fire Combat. During the combat phase, light infantry units that are not in actual contact with enemy units (either attacking or being attacked) can “fire” (once) at any enemy unit within one third infantry movement that is not in contact with another friendly unit (bombardment attacks likewise cannot target enemy units in contact with other friendly units). The light infantry unit rolls two dice; normal combat rules apply (including cover). After the light infantry fire is resolved, non-light lnfantry or dragoon units that are targeted by light infantry fire may return fire (regardless of target unit facing), also using two dice, but resolve their fire with an additional -1 modifier. Light infantry units firing at each other resolve their fire simultaneously, with no additional modifier.  Light infantry units that retreat from combat during the combat phase (voluntary or involuntary) cannot also fire. The three American skirmisher units are NOT treated as light infantry.

 

  1. Road Column. For infantry and cavalry, per the KS Brandywine Scenario Pub Battles rules, there is no movement cost to enter or leave road column. However, a unit may enter or leave road column at the beginning or the end of its turn only (NOT both). Mark a unit in road column by stacking a baggage train block on top (baggage trains are not used in the Pub Battles version). For especially long columns, stack a baggage train marker on the first unit in the road column. Artillery DOES expend 1/3 movement cost to limber OR unlimber, and can do so more than once – for example, limber, move one third move, and then unlimber. Limbered artillery is always considered to be in road column.

 

  1. Stacking and the “combined Division”. There is no “stacking” in the Pub Battles version. Supporting units are placed adjacent to the rear of the supported unit, just as in normal Pub Battles games. The only “stacking” that occurs is by column markers on top of the lead unit in the column. Disregard the “combined Division” rules in the KS Scenario addendum. Treat Infantry, artillery and cavalry blocks just like any infantry, artillery or cavalry block in pub battles, moving and fighting independently.

 

  1. Terrain Notes. Fields of Fire remain 1/3 Foot movement, and Artillery Ranges remain one foot move (about three quarters of a mile). Disregard the “bridge / ford” rule – movement across a bridge or ford still reduces movement, if the unit is not in road column.

 

  1. Tracking losses and “Combat Ineffective” status. The larger numbers of physically smaller unit blocks makes determining combat ineffective status a bit of a chore. The easiest way to do this is to use the Loss Rosters. Simply move destroyed units to the loss roster, on top of their unit strength. You will be able to see at a glance which commands have become combat ineffective as the game progresses.

 

  1. OPTIONAL Movement Rules. At the much larger 1:8000 scale, and with smaller (one half inch) blocks, the original Pub Battles Terrain rules are simple and easy to apply. To use the original rules, apply a one third movement penalty for each terrain type. Always allow a unit to move one third movement regardless of terrain (except for rivers, which can still only be crossed at a ford). If a unit has already been reduced by one third, and it encounters other terrain requiring further reduction, it halts immediately.  (I strongly recommend using this rule – it takes greatest advantage of the superb Pub Battles maps, and forces the players to analyze and use terrain in the same way as the actual army commanders).

 

  1. Victory Conditions. Calculate victory at the end of the game: 1 point for every enemy unit destroyed, plus three points for the British if they control one of the two major roads (control=no American units within 2/3 foot move of the road).  The Americans receive one victory point if rebel losses are less than 50%.

 

Commander MIA

Here is an interesting Kriegsspiel situation.  You never see this in regular wargames.  What if you lose contact with your commander?  What should you do? 

 

Our campaign began with our army dispersed wide over a province.  The enemy declared war and intell reports that a large enemy army has crossed the border and is heading our direction.

 

I received no starting orders.  Of my own initiative, I moved my Corps to a central location, in anticipation of a concentration.  I immediately sent a report to the Army commander informing him of my intent and planned march. 

I have been marching and fighting now for a week.  I have destroyed 1 enemy Corps and am about to attack and destroy a second.  I have been sending 1 Sit Rep every night to my Army commander.  Reporting on my daily events, enemy positions and strength, and my intentions for my next maneuvers. 

 

What is the response from the Army commander?  Silence.  I have yet to receive any orders or messages for the entire game.  What does this mean?  What should I do now?  What would you do?  Have I over stepped my bounds?  Am I going way too far?  Am I on the right track? 

 

We usually think of silence as peaceful and serene.  Here I find it fearsome and disturbing.    

Telestrations -Review

What does Telestrations have to do with wargames and military leadership?  Everything.  Telestrations IS Kriegsspiel. 

We often laugh after playing Kriegsspiel.  What did you think was happening?  What was really happening?  What did you tell them to do?  What did they actually do?  Why?  These differences are often hysterical!!!  Well, I guess we laugh so we don’t cry. 

Real leadership and real command is about communication.  Writing orders.  Getting your team to work together.  How often does this break down?  I have 2 words:  Murphy’s Law.

Remember the Chinese Telephone game we played as kids?  Everybody gets in a line.  Then you whisper a sentence in the first person’s ear.  They quietly pass it down the line.  When you get to the end, the result is completely different right? 

Telestrations is Kriegsspiel without the maps and musket warfare.  It is Pictionary and Chinese Telephone rolled together into a fun, easy party game. 

How does it work?  You pull a card with a word on it.  You have to draw a picture of that word.  You pass your picture to the next person.  They have to guess what the word was.  Here is an example starting with the word:  Recliner


Hysterical!  If you don’t have it, get it!!!  This is one of the best games ever made.  Everyone can play it.  I recommend the big 12 player party version.  Everyone will want to play.  This is a classic.  

Caution:  Do not play this if you have broken or cracked ribs.  You are going to be laughing a lot during this game!

Kriegsspiel Example

Here is a fun little example of a Kriegsspiel problem / situation.  What would you do if you were in command here?


Civil War era.  Operational scale.  Each block represents a Division of about 5,000 men.  You are in the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia.   

The Army of Northern Virginia has been marching NW for several days.  The Army of the Potomac is reportedly to the NW and is moving in your direction.  You are closing with the enemy and a battle is soon expected.  Comparative strength is unknown. 

The Army of Northern Virginia is divided into roughly 3 equal Corps.  You are in command of Jackson’s II Corps.  You are in the center.  Longstreet is to your left.  Hill is to your right.  Those little flag / HQ cubes mark your best guess as to where your friendly columns are currently.  You have marched for 3 days at a leisurely but steady pace:  5 miles per day, then stopping to forage the area for supplies and setting up camp for the night. 

 

You have marched 5 miles today since dawn.  It is now mid morning.  You have just halted the column and are preparing to send out foragers when you hear a fight break out to the SW of your position:  musket and canon fire.  This is likely in the vicinity of Longstreet’s Corps which is about a 2-3 miles away.   This is the first contact with the enemy. 

Map ahead. Enemy is expected to be approaching from the NW or upper left. Your LOC runs back to the SE.

Lee’s HQ is about 2-3 miles east of you. What do you do?  What are your orders?

What are the options?  What is the best move here?  Why?  Keep in mind that the clock is ticking.  Every minute you spend thinking and writing, delays your troops response.

Comment below. 

Do you need more information?  Have questions?  Ask!  I’ll provide Umpire answers.  🙂

 

 

 

Do Board Games Suck?

Anita Louie brings up many good points in this article.

I agree with her in many ways.  During design, we always start with a key question:  What is the ‘game’?  How do you win?  What is the point? 

All too often in board games, I feel like the point of the game is a bunch of boring work.  Collect and track a bunch of resources.  They make me feel like a worker drone on an assembly line.  Why are we doing this?  To me, that is not fun.  It’s doing a bunch of busy work.   

 


What is the point of most video games?  To practice and memorize the proper sequence of buttons to be pushed quickly?  Find the right weapons on the level in the right sequence so that you can beat the level?  Do it a 100 times until you can get fast enough at it to succeed?  Is  your goal is to develop rapid hand eye coordination and memorize a bunch of moves?  There is a time and place for this but then what?  Not my idea of fun.

 


To me, games like Monopoly, Life, Clue, Battleship, etc. are really for kids.  The point is to teach basic skills like counting, taking turns, following rules, making change for money, etc.  They are really just slightly more advanced versions of Candy Land and Chutes & Ladders.  There is an educational purpose to this but for adults?  Not fun.   

 


Where do most  wargames fit in here?  I hate to say it but I have to agree with her.  Most wargames fall into the same category.  What is the game?  They amount to attritional exercises of accounting, record keeping and tracking resources.  Busy work.  How much fun interaction is there with another live human?  A contest of intelligence and wits? 

 


One goal she doesn’t mention is education.  Why do we play games?  I feel that a big goal in wargaming is learning.  Maybe the game isn’t fun.  Maybe it’s not an engaging battle of intelligence with a live opponent.  Still, I like playing them because I want to learn about this war, campaign or battle.  I want to understand better how and why it was fought.  How and why it was won or lost.  I see many wargames more as interactive models of historical conflicts than an actual ‘game’. 

 


Does Anita have a driving need to learn and understand military conflict and history?  No.  For her it is all about fun and meaningful interaction with friends;  with live people.  If I wasn’t a military history nut, I’d feel exactly the same way.

 

I wonder what Anita would think of Kriegsspiel?  I have to imagine that she would love it!  To me, Kriegsspiel is exactly what she is talking about.  What is the ‘game’?  It is people.  How do we interact with them?  Working together.  Teamwork.  Communication. 

 

These are the things I love about Kriegsspiel.  Anita would love them too, IF you could ever convince her to try it.